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Friday, August 14, 2009

Surf's Up!

Yes, I went surfing today! And it was awesome!!! I wish we had an underwater camera so I could have gotten pictures (ie proof) to show that I actually did stand up! It wasn’t for very long, but I did successfully stand up the last two times before we left!
I probably never would have just on my own decided “hey I think I’m going to go learn how to surf” because I have absolutely none of the necessary gear… but Mike conveniently had extra surfboards and wetsuits and knew the good 'beginner' places, so it worked out!

I was worried that the water was going to be absolutely freezing (because I have discovered in the last two months that the water here seems to always be cold - no matter what), but with the wetsuits it actually was great! My hands and feet were a bit cold, but the rest of me was nice and toasty. haha. It was almost sad how not educated I was on surfing. I had never even heard of 'surf wax' or surfboard wax or whatever it's called. I always wondered how people didn't fall off of their boards... Now I know. :P

In the beginning, Mike would tell me to start paddling and then would give me an extra push so I could actually catch the wave. We did that for the better portion of the time we were out there (2-3 hours), but the last few times I did it all on my own! I had a hard time balancing, so it took me most of the wave to actually stand up, but the last couple of times I did it, I successfully stood all the way up! It only lasted for about 5 seconds each time, but it was still cool!

We drove down the PCH on the way home and stopped at the Malibu sign because it was a great view, and took some pictures. The one of me I find quite amusing because it shows you how white I *really* am by comparing the color of my arms to the color of my legs. Apparently my legs need to get in the sun more often!

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